Heaps Canyon - Zion National Park

Having hiked a few classics and explored a few other non-published
areas in Zion in the 5-6 years past, I was hooked! I know others that
have experienced the same sensation. I found myself one day hesitantly
walking up to the desk with Oak Creek in the background at the visitors
center. I then asked the ranger on duty if I may peer at the 3 ring
binders that were stashed away for those and only those that knew of
them. Somewhat intimidated, I flipped one of them open and landed on an
account of "Heaps Canyon" by Royce Trapier. I had not heard of this
canyon so I had to see what and where it might be. After seeing that it
was a fairly gentle approach (up the West Rim) my interest peaked.
Reading further was just like adding wood to my fire. The descriptions
were vivid accounts of many awkward rappels into frigid pools of water,
scrambles across impossibly angled slabs of rock, climbs up log jams
that required every ounce of energy that could be mustered, but what
really stopped me for a second and third and fourth careful study was
something he described as the "Devils Pit". I believe the year was 1992?

I rounded up a couple friends that I had hiked Mystery and a couple
other classics with, (Mystery was not a classic back then) and gave
them my spiel! Carefully I assured them that this hike would be an
adventure not soon forgotten. I didn't describe the hardships
experienced by Royce Trapier in an attempt he had made previous to his
successful Heaps bid. I didn't want to lose any chance I may have to
recruit partners for this spellbinding hike. After placing a rope at
Upper Emerald Pool and leaving a vehicle at the Lodge, we made our way
to the trailhead at Lava Point. The hike was easy but hot on that June
Day and by 1PM we had arrived at a point that may or may not be the
entry into Heaps. We had sucked down all of our water carried and I
volunteered to run over to Cabin Springs to pump our bottles full of
another dose of the clear elixir. When I had returned to the head of
the canyon we were about to venture into, I realized that both of the
partners I had so slyly recruited for this adventure were very
dehydrated. I knew that the attempt was in jepardy, so we took a vote
and decided that it wasn't to be. Behunin was just down the trail and
we didn't want to have hauled all that gear and not use it. It was a
fun hike thru Behunin Canyon that day!

My thirst was just temporarily quenched. The next year I was able to
get two other friends convinced. Mike was a skating buddy (played
roller hockey together) and Mark was the owner of the roller rink that
we played at. I had hiked Mystery with Mike but Mark hadn't had the
opportunity to even rappel yet. I took Mark out to a local Crag 2 days
before our slated Saturday morning departure, and showed him the
delicate intricacies of descending a rope. He did well and had fun. The
night before the trip I went to the rink and met with the two, and
explained that this would be a very difficult hike, probably the most
difficult any of us may have ever experienced. I offered the chance to
end it here and now (in a way I was hoping they would resign!), but
they both said they would be ready at 4AM. Once again we drove up to
the Lodge and I ran up and stashed the requisite 300' x 8mm accessory
cord that would enable us to finish the hike with all of our gear. We
started up the West Rim this time from the bottom. By 1PM and slogging
in the heat of the day, we arrived at the spot that made sense for the
descent. Down we go and after about an hour of hunting, and pecking we
found ourselves at a tree with webbing. This is the start. Once we go
down and pull our ropes we will be committed (probably to an
institution!). Our packs were laden with lots of gear. I did not want
to fail! My pack dry weighed 65# and Mark and Mike carried a bit less,
but then it was my idea so I had the honors! We had 1100' of various
size and length rope, the questionable by todays standard full bolt kit
with hooks, a set of cams and nuts, my climbing shoes, overnight gear,
food and water and FULL, THICK WETSUITS rented from the local Dive
shop. See! I told you I didn't want to fail this attempt! We made the
rappels with only having the rope jam twice, re-ascending and then
onward again. As we looked thru the ever deepening almost limestone
textured rock, peering south toward "The Crossroads", I mentioned that
it was a lot like a "Gunsight". I think the name stuck? We arrived at
the Slab of rock that I remembered in the description. Carefully walk
down and then place hands on the east side and feet on west side and do
a full body stem for the next 100 yards (Its easier to rappel this
section). Holy Heck! (Hell in Mormon) You talk about a workout! On to
the next obstacles; a few rappels some short some long, a couple swims,
some short some long and Voila! 8PM and we are just above the
Crossroads....I think? We are beat...lets settle in above the wash and
cook some MRE's (Yummy) and get some sleep for the real McCoy in the
morning!

It took a while to get packed and going, but by 8AM we were on the
trail! I remember that at the Crossroads we need to ascend a very steep
ramp and then traverse 100 Yds. to a tree and then rappel 80' into
the "Alley". A tough start to the morning! (now I know that its easier
to just drop into the pool and walk around the corner! ;-) Well...its
9:30 and we are here! Man does this canyon slot down in a hurry! On
with the wetsuits and batton down the hatches and DIVE! DIVE! DIVE!
Absolutely stunning...absolutely amazing....absolutely
unique......absolutely wet and freezing! One pothole to the next
pothole to the next logjam to the next rappel...to the next
downclimb........on and on and on! It was unbelievable! Where is
the "Devils Pit" I wondered? To a pothole, and its tougher to get out.
Need some shoving from behind. That reminds me! Mark, let me have the
bolt kit with the hooks since I'm leading....."What Bolt Kit?" Mark
exclaims! "It fell out in one of those swims and I wasn't about to go
diving!" Mark! Mark! Mark! Well..I sure hope to "Heck" we don't need it
in here! Onward! I kept saying, this must be the Devils Pit! Geez!
There are a bunch of Devils Pits! We came to a place that appeared to
fit Royces description best. This was it! Exit by scrambling up the 25'
high logjam and down the backside...too easy? On the other side of the
Jam? A single log stretched across a deep pothole for 20'. Now this
looked super balancy and exciting! Put a rope around my waist in case I
fall and you can drag my butt out of there! Now your turn! Now to
another pothole but this time, no log; feet on one side and back on
other and inch across. We made it......downstream just a short
distance, and I holler out, "Its a 20 foot drop and no
anchors!"..wheres the bolt kit when you think you need it? Could rig an
anchor back off the logjam if needed, but one more glance, ahhhhh,
theres an old bolt hidden in a small alcove on the right!

The canyon is widening out now. A couple long rappels and now at the
end alas! Now where? I sort of remember that we have some very long
drops ahead but I forget where we should go? Drop into the huge chimney
overlooking Upper Emerald? Nah! Too much work if its not the anchors.
So I head up on the ledge on the east side of the chimney. Nothing, so
it must be on the west side? I could jump across? Nope...too long to
fall if I miss! so back down and after a short scramble up a dirty
corner and a bit of romping, I peak my head over and shout...grab this
end of the rope and tie the packs on. Heave-ho and up the packs come
one at a time. Down to the anchor on a small pine tree and a short
50'er to a big pine tree and some GRAND EXPOSURE! Are those people down
there? Yep! Next rap to the slanting ramp at the chimney. Three of us
were snug as a bug in a rug! Pull out the 300'x8mm accessory cord that
had been stashed in the "wet" drybag and over I go! Dig around in the
grass for a bit, tie the stashes cord to the end and "Haul Away!". Mark
comes first after careful inspection by Mike (Mark was on about his
15th Rappel ever in his life) Down comes Mark with a little pressure
from my conditional belay. Next up...Mike on his way! A little more
assistance and at 9PM we're down! A couple handshakes and forced smiles
and a few night see'rs applaud and what do you know, theres some wives
and friends to lend a hand with the final jaunt to the vehicles and a
promise of some "cold pizza and cold beer". Yee-haw! I knew we wouldn't
fail.

Bo